Choosing Hardwood Siding for a Renovation: What to Check First

Assess the Existing Siding and Substructure

Begin by examining the current siding material, its condition, and the underlying substructure. Note any signs of rot, insect damage, mold, or structural instability. These issues must be addressed before new siding is installed. If the existing siding is lightweight, such as vinyl or thin aluminum, the underlying sheathing and framing might not be robust enough to support the heavier hardwood. Hardwood siding requires a solid, flat, and structurally sound surface for proper installation.

Verify the integrity of the wall sheathing, studs, and any existing furring strips. For a rainscreen assembly, which is often recommended for hardwood siding to promote ventilation and drainage, the substructure needs to accommodate the additional depth. This might involve adding new furring strips or adjusting the existing ones to create the necessary air gap. Consider the condition of the moisture barrier or house wrap; if it's compromised, it will need replacement or repair.

Document any areas where the existing siding is pulling away, has cracks, or shows water infiltration. These are indicators of potential underlying issues that must be resolved to ensure the new hardwood siding performs as intended.

Evaluate Wall Assembly and Rainscreen Requirements

Hardwood siding benefits significantly from a rainscreen assembly, which includes a ventilated air gap between the siding and the moisture barrier. This gap allows moisture to drain away and promotes airflow, helping to dry the siding and prevent moisture accumulation that can lead to rot or mold. For a renovation, you must determine if the existing wall assembly can be adapted to incorporate a rainscreen.

If the current siding is directly applied to the sheathing, creating a rainscreen will require adding furring strips. This adds depth to the wall, which can impact window and door trim details, as well as corner treatments. Plan for these adjustments early in the process. Some hardwood siding profiles are designed to facilitate a rainscreen gap inherently, while others require separate furring strips.

Consider the climate as well; in areas with heavy rainfall or high humidity, a robust rainscreen system is particularly important. The goal is to manage moisture effectively to prolong the life and appearance of the hardwood siding.

Consider Window, Door, and Corner Details

Renovating siding around existing windows and doors requires careful planning. The increased thickness of hardwood siding, especially when combined with a rainscreen, can necessitate extensions or modifications to existing window and door trim. Ensure there is adequate space to maintain proper flashing and weatherproofing around openings.

Similarly, corner details need attention. Depending on the chosen hardwood siding profile and installation method, you might use mitered corners, corner boards, or metal trim. The existing corner framing should be sound and plumb to support these finishing elements. Plan how the new siding will terminate at these points for a clean and weather-tight finish.

Review any existing vents, light fixtures, or other wall penetrations. These will need to be properly integrated with the new siding, ensuring that all flashing and sealing details are correctly executed to prevent water intrusion.

Selecting Hardwood Species and Profiles for Renovation

The choice of hardwood species and profile impacts both aesthetics and long-term performance. Options like Ipe, Cumaru, Garapa, Angelim, Jatoba, and Tigerwood offer distinct appearances and characteristics. Ipe is known for its density and deep tones, Cumaru for its golden hues, and Garapa as a structural workhorse. Thermally modified woods, such as thermally modified Ayous or Ash, and acetylated wood like Maximo Accoya, offer enhanced stability.

Consider the desired aesthetic: a bold grain, a clean contemporary look, or a deep red facade. Hardwood siding is available in various profiles, including tongue-and-groove, shiplap, and custom milled options. The profile choice influences the shadow lines, installation method, and how water sheds from the wall.

For a renovation, match the chosen hardwood and profile with the building's architectural style and your aesthetic goals. Also, consider the maintenance commitment; some hardwoods may require more frequent finishing to retain their original color, while others are often allowed to weather naturally to a silver-gray patina. Explore options at our /siding-and-cladding page, or consider /thermally-modified-wood for enhanced stability, or /products/maximo-accoya for acetylated wood options.

Worked Example: Renovating a 20-Foot Wall Section

Let's consider renovating a 20-foot long by 9-foot high wall section on an existing home. The current siding is aged cedar lap siding, directly nailed to plywood sheathing. The goal is to upgrade to a thermally modified Ayous shiplap siding, which requires a rainscreen.

First, the existing cedar siding must be carefully removed. Upon removal, the plywood sheathing is inspected for rot or damage. Assume a few small sections of plywood need repair due to minor moisture intrusion. The existing house wrap is also found to be brittle and will be replaced with a new, continuous moisture barrier.

To create the rainscreen, 1x3 furring strips (actual dimensions approximately 0.75 inches by 2.5 inches) will be installed vertically, spaced 16 inches on center, over the new house wrap. For a 20-foot wall, this means 15 vertical strips (20 feet / 1.33 feet per strip = 15 strips, including ends). Each strip is 9 feet long, so 15 strips x 9 feet/strip = 135 linear feet of furring strips are needed. Given standard lumber lengths, 12-foot or 10-foot boards would be purchased, accounting for cuts and waste.

The thermally modified Ayous shiplap siding (e.g., 5.5-inch face width) will then be fastened to these furring strips. For a 9-foot height, each board will be cut to length. The total area is 20 feet x 9 feet = 180 square feet. With a 5.5-inch (0.458-foot) face width, approximately 180 sq ft / 0.458 ft = 393 linear feet of siding are needed. Accounting for cuts, waste, and starting/ending boards, an additional 10-15% should be added to this quantity for purchase. Window and door trim will need to be extended outwards by approximately 1 inch (0.75-inch furring + siding thickness) to maintain flushness with the new siding surface.

Before you order

• Inspect existing siding for damage (rot, insects, mold).
• Verify the structural integrity of the wall sheathing and framing.
• Assess if the existing substructure can support the weight of hardwood siding.
• Determine if a rainscreen assembly can be integrated, and plan for furring strips.
• Evaluate impacts on window, door, and corner trim details.
• Check for proper flashing and weatherproofing around all openings and penetrations.
• Select a hardwood species and profile suitable for the architectural style and desired maintenance.
• Calculate material quantities for siding, furring strips, and any necessary repair materials.
• Confirm local building codes for siding renovations and rainscreen requirements.

Confirm installation details, approved uses and warranty terms in the current instructions for the exact product and profile. Your installer should verify the substrate, structure and applicable project requirements.

Questions to help you decide

Keep planning your project